Tools needed Jack Jackstands (2) 5/8 open end wrench 17mm socket (required) 17mm open end wrench (optional) BMW e34 Front Sway Bar Link part number 31 35 1 134 582
Cost: $25.00 each from K&K Auto Parts here in Orlando, FL.
Time: 45 minutes up and down.
I just did this for Chet today, he works with me and he's had this car for a few months now, got it for $3,500 - about $5,000 under what it should have been - and it's time for a little maitenence. He told me he had some clicking noises when he takes turns, so I took a look underneath, and saw the sway bar links in pretty bad condition. I told him to get them Tuesday, and waited until today - and I said "Last chance for me to do this for free, starting Thursday, it's $100.00, and goes up $10.00 per day thereafter!!!" - Got it done today, he paid $50.00 for parts, and I did it for free, no problem.
First thing to do is loosen the lug nuts on both wheels while the car is on the ground, but do not take the lugs out, just break them loose. Next, get your jack (if you have a floor jack, this is handy) and jack up the car under the frame, and place a jack stand on each side of the car about 6 inches back from the front of the frame.
If you're starting on the driver's side, you'll have to turn the steering wheel all the way to the right and pull the key out to engage the column lock.
You'll see the sway bar link clearly here. You'll start at the top and use a 17mm socket (deep socket is preferred here) on the top of the sway bar link where it connects to the strut. Use your 5/8 Open end wrench to grasp the flat spot on the opposite side of the nut.
You'll turn the nut counter clockwise using the socket wrench and hold the 5/8 firmly in place until the nut is almost to the end, where it's finger tight. Then you'll go to the section where the swaybar link connects to the swaybar, and you will do the same procedure as above.
Remove the top nut from the link, where it connects to the strut, and then remove the swaybar link at this point, there will be no recoil from the sway bar, because it's not under pressure, so you're ok to remove the link now.
Installing the new link is the opposite of what you just did. Start with the top section that connects to the strut, and get it about 80% tight, enough so that you can attatch the lower section of the sway bar link to the sway bar. Then get the sway bar link connected to the sway bar, and tighten (I do not have the torque spec's on this, but get it tight)
Do the same on the right side - remember to turn the wheel to the left if working on the right - you can access the links much easier this way.
You're good to go now - so install the wheels again, lower the car down on one side first, then torque the wheel lugs to 74 ft/lbs and then go to the other side, and do the same.
This process only takes at the most 45 minutes, from the ground, up and back down.
Here is a comparison to a new sway bar link, and a badly damaged link.
Also take note that you must inspect the fron control arms at this point - the front left control arms are pretty bad, so that will be the next project on this car, and find an oil leak.
You can see all of these photos in the photo gallery.
